Saturday, May 2, 2009

Spring Vegetables

I originally wrote this article for a magazine which published it and never paid me, so I thought I might as well publish it myself.  -Quinn

Nothing tastes as sweet as the first vegetables of the season. Fresh asparagus, ramps and edible ferns are a sure sign that the subzero days are behind us. A little salt and pepper will bring out the flavor of any vegetable, but try these variations if you’re looking for a little more excitement.

Sautéed Spring Vegetables
This technique is great for dinner parties because it works with almost any vegetable and you can blanch them up to a day ahead and store them in the fridge, then give them a quick sauté to reheat them just before serving.

Blanch
Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add a handful of sea salt. (You want the water to be salty.) Drop in vegetables and cook briefly — just until the color blooms. Don’t overcook.
TIP: Cooking times will vary depending on the vegetable. If you’re doing several different kinds of vegetables, use the same pot of boiling water for all, but only cook one kind at a time to ensure even cooking.
Scoop vegetables out of water with a slotted spoon or strainer and plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. At this point, you can drain the cooled vegetables and store them in the fridge for up to a day. Wrapping them in a paper towel inside a plastic bag keeps them fresh, but not soggy.

Sauté
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat, until it shimmers (don’t let it smoke). Add a tablespoon of butter and the blanched, chilled vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and toss until heated through (1-2 minutes). Serve immediately.

Variations:
Spicy—Sprinkle a pinch of red pepper flakes into the oil before adding the vegetables.
Garlic—Add a crushed garlic clove to the oil while sautéing, but remove it before serving.
Curry—Sprinkle a teaspoon (or to taste) of curry powder into the oil and butter and let it cook for a few seconds before adding the vegetables. (Curry is especially great with boiled new potatoes.)
Asian—Replace the butter with a teaspoon of sesame oil and add a teaspoon each of minced garlic, grated ginger and soy sauce.